If you’re getting serious about tree work, your gear choices can make or break your day. We spent a day with a 16+ year arborist to break down the five most essential items every climber should own, plus how to use them safely and efficiently. You’ll see how a pro sets lines, rigs a limb, and manages communication with the crew. By the end, you’ll know which tools to buy first, how they work together, and why  safety-first gear always pays for itself.

PPE is always the first purchase. It’s personal, like a toothbrush. You do not share it with your crew. Your helmet, your hearing protection, and your face shield prevent injuries that end careers.

Moose’s helmet of choice is the Protos. It is pricier than many, but the features add up to real protection and comfort during long days.

Key features:

1. Air vent for temperature control, closed for cold weather, open for heat.
2. Face shield that protects your “money maker,” your face.
3. Magnetic clasp that stays secure when you look up.
4. Ear muffs that fold down, adjust easily, and keep noise in check.
5. A rear mount point for a Sena communication device, so the climber can talk to the ground crew without yelling.

Other touches matter too. The adjustable dial lets you tighten the fit, and the “hair cape” at the back helps keep debris from going inside the helmet. It’s a smart, complete system for day-in, day-out work.

Your harness is an extension of your PPE. Fit and function are personal, so test a few before buying. Moose runs the Teufelberger Tree Motion with a double bridge.

Why it works:

• Double bridge adds stability and a passive backup if one bridge fails. Both are interchangeable, so you can replace a worn bridge.
• Multiple attachment points let you position your body, lean out, and clip tools where you want them.
• Green life-support loops offer climbing connection options. Hip rings support lanyard use and side positioning. The dorsal attachment helps with rescue.

Moose also adds locking gear carriers for a handsaw and chainsaw, which keeps everything tidy and fast. Whatever harness you pick, inspect your gear regularly. Check for frays and cuts, and ask a second set of eyes to look it over. A partner might spot what you miss.

Right after PPE comes the saw. Your climbing saw is your second most essential tool. It needs to be light, reliable, and easy to service in the field. It should handle pruning cuts in the canopy and bucking limbs on the ground.

Moose’s go-to is the Stihl MS201TC. It is built for in-tree work, attaches neatly to a harness, and has the power for large branches. He uses this model in Hawaii and Florida, and keeps multiples on hand so work never stops if one goes down.

Other brands, like Echo and Husqvarna, also make solid top-handle saws. Moose favors Stihl because parts are easy to find, the saw is simple to work on at the job site, and the platform has a long track record. As he puts it, keeping your saws going is going to be keeping your business going.

What matters most in a climbing saw:

• Versatile for in-tree and ground work
• Attaches easily to your saddle
• Field-serviceable, with parts you can get quickly

You’ll use two categories of rope: climbing line for ascent and movement, and rigging line for lowering wood. Knowing the difference keeps you safe and makes the work smoother.

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Moose climbs SRT, Single Rope Technique. He favors an 11.8 mm line at 200 ft (60 m). It has a little give, which keeps it comfortable on ascent and versatile when adding pre-redirects in the canopy. It is not a fully static line.

He often ties two alpine butterfly knots near the working end. Two loops make it easier to manage redirects and to break a cinched knot when retrieving. He does a test pull with the ground crew to confirm the line is set cleanly over the target limb and not caught behind anything.

Pro tip: color-code your ropes so instructions are simple. Saying “send up the red rope” beats “send the half inch rope,” especially under pressure.

Rigging rope takes abrasion and heavy loads. A 1/2 inch, 12-braid is ideal when running through natural crotches or multiple redirects. This construction resists the sheath damage common in core-and-sheath climbing lines when they rub on wood. It is built to handle friction better during removals and lowering.

Use different colors for climbing and rigging lines. It keeps the whole team on the same page and prevents mix-ups.

Bold reminder: color-code your ropes for quick, clear communication.

A throw cube and line get your rope into the crown without guesswork. Moose keeps about 150 ft of Teufelberger throw line in a fold-flat throw cube. The line tests around 900 lb, and he runs a 14 oz Notch throw weight with a high-visibility pattern. He attaches the weight with a girth hitch and a half hitch.

Setup details that matter:

• The cube twists to open and close, so it packs small and deploys fast.
• An inner pocket and Velcro tab hold the first line you plan to throw.
• A heavier 16 oz counterweight can help when dropping the line or testing through a crowded canopy.

Throwing techniques he uses:

• Slip knot handle. Form a small handle to grip, step with the left foot, throw with the right hand, and even jump if you need extra power.
• Pendulum method. Learned from world champion Josephine Hedger. Run the line over the first crease of your pointer fingers, then point at the target on release. It is accurate and consistent.

Once the line is over your chosen crotch, pull up your climbing rope and tie two alpine butterfly loops in the working end. Moose ties them by wrapping the line around his hand three times, then weaving the first and second strands to form the loop. Portion the rope based on the canopy. Live oaks with broad crowns may need extra working end pulled from the bag so you can move.

Quick setup steps:

1. Sight the limb, a laser pointer helps call the shot for the team.
2. Throw the bag into the target crotch using your preferred technique.
3. Pull the throw line, then tie two alpine butterfly loops in your climbing rope.
4. Test pull with the ground crew before committing to the climb.

Rigging gear manages force and friction so the climber and the tree both stay safe. Two core tools do the heavy lifting in most jobs: a swivel block with an ultras sling, and a porter wrap.

Moose runs a swivel Omni Block paired with an ultras sling. The sling is a multi-loop setup built from one spliced rope folded in half. It cinches to the limb quickly and holds the block in position.

Why this block stands out:

• It swivels, so the system unwinds tension by itself. Swivel prevents rope twists before you even load the system.
• The side plate opens with a two-button lock. You do not have to rethread the rope from the end, which saves time in the tree.
• It is strong and compact, rated at 80 kN, so it suits both pruning and moderate lowering.
• Carabiners at both ends keep the setup tight and tidy.

Place the block above the cut when possible. It also handles negative rigging below the cut point if the wood is within its safe working range.

A porter wrap turns dangerous lowerings into controlled descents. Never rely on raw grip strength. If the limb weighs 300 lb and you weigh 200 lb, you might be going up while the wood comes down. The porter wrap gives the ground crew the friction they need.

How Moose installs it at the base:

1. Connect a heavy dead eye sling to the longer tongue of the porter wrap with a girth hitch. Do not attach to the shorter tongue.
2. Wrap the tail around the tree, bring it up to knee height for a safe working zone away from your face.
3. Create a bite by coming down and around the trunk, then pass the tail through that bite to make a second girth.
4. Add two half hitches to lock it in, then tuck the tail so the device cannot swing and scar the trunk.

Position the porter wrap so metal does not slam into the bark on release. Customers notice trunk damage, even when the pruning looks perfect.

The setup: a pine around 45 to 50 feet tall with a dead Y-shaped limb on the left side. Perfect for a clean example of a proper lower.

Sequence of actions:

• The team sets the climbing rope with two alpine butterfly loops. They do a test pull to confirm a clean path.
• For the rigging line, they tie a running bowline at the limb and use a stopper knot, a double overhand, to hold the tail.
• Safety first. You hear the calls: Loose gear, Stand clear, All clear.
• Moose adds his positioning lanyard for two points of attachment, warms up the saw, and confirms the porter wrap is set with a half wrap of friction.
• He makes a back cut, the ground crew feathers the rope cleanly into the bag to keep it organized, and the limb lowers under control.
• He uses the handsaw for touch-ups, always keeping the blade away from the rope line.
• The block comes down, the rigging rope gets stowed, and the climber descends smoothly, clipping in and out with practiced moves.

It looks simple when a veteran does it. That ease comes from reps, planning, and the right tools working together.

Start with PPE. Add a reliable top-handle saw. Choose a harness that fits your body and workflow. Pick the right ropes for climbing and rigging, then learn to use a swivel block and porter wrap with confidence.

Practical takeaways:

• Inspect gear often, and get a second opinion on wear.
• Keep backups of key tools, like two climbing saws.
• Color-code lines and keep commands short, like “Stand clear.”
• Practice throw line techniques on the ground before you climb.

If you want to develop real skill fast, train with a seasoned pro like Moose. Watching a pro climb is helpful, but hands-on coaching builds habits that keep you efficient and safe.

Getting into tree work the right way starts with  smart gear choices and solid habits. A proven helmet, a dialed harness, the right ropes, and a dependable saw set you up to climb well and work clean. Add a swivel block and a porter wrap, and you can rig with control and protect both the climber and the tree. Thanks for reading, and stay safe out there. What will you add to your kit next?

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